Saturday, 31 August 2013

Messing about in a boat 4 - The last village

We arrived at Chenillé-Changé, and the first thing you see is a mill with an insane crenelated tower attached to it.  Apparently inspired by one-time miller's trip to Italy.  You can have guided tours of the mill if you like, and also learn how to tie some standard knots.


The little village shop is just up the road, run by a lady who does everything herself, in the style that would probably be described as shabby French chic, except that this is the real thing: piles of fresh fruit and veg on the table,  computers and files on a desk, fishing gear in the corner, beer on tap, ice cream, batteries, disposable cameras, coffee when you like, lunch and dinner in the garden that she maintains herself, or inside if you prefer.  A real life general village store.


Farther on up the hill is the church, open to all, with a short history of its construction, plus lights, flowers and churchy music.


And on still farther, there is a small wood, with a grotto and statue of Mary, erected to fulfill a prayer bargain, since in fact the Prussians did't get as far as Chenillé-Changé as was feared they might.  Nice views of the river.


And after Chenillé-Changé, it was back to the boatyard, clean the boat, indulge in another excellent crêpe by the river, and from then on hoime.  Impressions of the break?  Very pleasant, unhurried, calm, nice views of countryside, herons, kingfishers, and some attractive places to visit.   The rivers were both astonishingly unpopulated - I doubt that we saw even ten boats moving on the water during the whole two-day trip.  A navigable waterway in England in the middle of August would be chokka, I think. A nice calm break.



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