Since the new heap will be in the same place as the current one, I will have to do the project in stages, moving part of the current heap out of the way, puttng the new area in its place, then moving some of the current heap into the new space, and so on, progressing along until it's all finished.
In order to make the first bit of space, I have to get the compost out of the current heap and put it somewhere in the garden. The best use I can make of it is probably in the veg patch, so as part of the Veg Patch Develoment Scheme, I have to make a raised bed there to take the new compost. This involves some new wooden planks, some creosote (or substitute) to protect them, and some nails. Here are the pics of the new raised bed bed project.
All ready now to accept the first delivery of compost from the heap. I might even grow some veg on it next year.
Ideally, for the base of your heap, do not use concrete. Instead use ordinary compacted earth. The earth allows drainage of the compost, and also allows worms an easier route in.
ReplyDeleteIf you have a concrete base already, get wooden transport pallets and use those as a raised base for at least some of the compost.
In addition to vegetative material, compost cardboard, roughly torn. It stops it form getting soggy, and composts well. The paper output from your shredder works well, too.
If your compost contains loads of worms, it isn't ready. They're still doing their work. A few worms means good, healthy, finished compost.
You might want to save a lot of hard work, and use painted pallets as the dividers and side walls, too. Major benefits are that they are environmentally friendly, and allow your heap to air. And your worms can migrate from finished heap to fresh worm food!
ReplyDeleteAmazing how one job always seems to involve about six more...
ReplyDeleteTim, thanks for this advice. There is no concrete down yet, so I can make the base out of the soil that is already there. I can concrete in some sturdy posts at the corners and ends of the partitions, and attach wood planks on alternate sides to make a slatted effect.
ReplyDeleteAlthough it seems slightly counter-intuitive, compost also benefits from being turned over. It adds air to the heap, moves worms and other critters about and speeds up the decomposition process. Compacted compost tends just to go sour. This is as true for a mature and usable heap as for a ew one with masses of greenery in it.
ReplyDeleteYou can also mix in exhausted soil in thin layers. The worms will incorporated it into the rotting and rotted material and it adds useful bulk while refreshing the soil you add.
Controlling water in the heap helps, too. You need some, obviously, but not every downpour.
Grass cuttings can be a pest. Unless you mix them in well, you'll ferment them and get silage, albeit very poor quality and slimy, not compost. Kitchen vegetable waste, even cooked, is perfect. Meat products will compost, but cause more problems (rats, flies, etc) than they are worth.
Isn't there a product called "Garotta" or something, supposed to help with grass cuttings?
ReplyDeleteThere is, but I've never known it to help. Old cardboard, shredded newspaper and heap turning do work
ReplyDeleteWhy do people use planking in connection with compost? Yet they always have. Surely brick or a plastic would last better.
ReplyDelete